The pans are then drained and the crystals raked off and dried

The pans are then drained, and the crystals raked off and dried.But this season’s rains, says Mr Osborne, have introduced unwelcome fresh water, diluting the sea water in the marshes. His company’s attempts to make salt have been thwarted for three months “This has been the worst ever,” he says. “We installed a new salt pan but we haven’t been able to use it yet.” Come April, he hopes, the waters will return to normal, and salt production will resume.One of these days people will realise that pounds 1.25 for 250 grammes is no price to pay for such a luxury and it will fly off the shelves. Until then, I’ll continue to use my Maldon Sea Salt with abandon, and not just as a condiment.Sea salt is essential for two sensational treats: salted almonds and the all-purpose Moroccan relish, preserved lemons (see right). Home-made salted almonds are one of the world’s unsung delights. Blanch half a pound or so of organic almonds by soaking in boiling water for five minutes, then slipping them out of their skins Mop dry and lay on an oiled baking sheet.

Place in the oven on a very low heat for 30 minutes or till they turn a pale biscuit colour. Sprinkle with a tablespoon of sea salt, put in a bowl, cover, and leave for an hour before serving. (If you are too impatient, gently fry a handful of blanched almonds in a pan with a teaspoon of vegetable oil and a little salt, shaking to prevent burning. Remove from the pan when nicely coloured and drain on kitchen paper.)NEXT WEEK: THE NEW KITCHEN ESSENTIALSALTED PRESERVED LEMONSFills a 1-litre glass jar700g/1lb 8oz unwaxed lemons (about five or six)10 to 12 teaspoons sea saltQuarter lemons lengthwise, keeping them attached at the stalk end. Carefully prise them open and spread two teaspoons of salt into each lemon.

Pack the lemons tightly into the jar and put a weight on top (a well-scrubbed stone, for instance) so that they exude as much liquid as possible. Seal the jar and leave for four weeks to mature before use.From Street Cafe Morocco by Anissa Helou (Conran Octopus, pounds 12.99). No zips, no buttons, no Velcro to be seen – this summer will be one long toga party as designers turn out clothes that would grace a Roman statue. Getting dressed has never been such a challenge

Opposite page: white cotton dress, pounds 157, and white cotton bustier dress, pounds 160, both by A F Vandevorst, from Browns Focus, 38-39 South Molton St, London W1, 0171 629 0666, Koh Samui, 65 Monmouth St, London WC2, 0171 240 4280
Left: cream silk wrap dress, to order, by Roland Mouret, enquiries 0171 251 8861Brown jersey statue-print T-shirt, pounds 209, and blue silk statue-print T-shirt, pounds 599, both by Jean Paul Gaultier, from Galerie Gaultier, 171- 175 Draycott Ave, London SW3, 0171 584 4648, and Lisa Couture, 15Watergate Row, Chester,01244 401123White burnt top, by Shelley Fox, from a selection at Whistles, 12 St Christopher’s Place, London W1, 0171 487 4484; white burnt skirt, to order, by Shelley Fox, enquiries 0171 251 8861; white leather bowling shoes, pounds 76, by Camper, 35 Brompton Rd, London SW3, enquiries 0171 584 5439. THERE IS no room for doubt here.