In the context of Bordeaux Burgundy and the Rh? the traditional holy trinity of fine wine regions is the

7 Oct
2010

In the context of Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rh? the traditional holy trinity of fine wine regions, is the “new France” tag a bit of spin or does it translate into improved reds that genuinely justify their high prices?

Despite its losing battle with the new world in the mass market, France is still dominant in the upper echelons of wine. The New France (the title of Andrew Jefford’s award-winning reappraisal of the country’s wines) does raise a big question. Despite its losing battle with the new world in the mass market, France is still dominant in the upper echelons of wine. Other names to look out for include Transtherm, Norcave and Eurocave. Contact , , Transtherm Cabinets (01926 811376) and Norcool Appliances Ltd (01302 351234).. Generally speaking, the more shelves the less wine but the greater the ease of access.Quality, as ever, depends on budget with prices ranging from £500 to several thousand pounds.

After shopping around on the web, Marina is pretty thrilled with her Liebherr, which is one of the cheaper brands.With adaptable use of space and anti-vibration compressors, wine storage cabinets can include separate compartments for bringing wines to room temperature and keeping them cool. Capacity varies from 50 bottles to 500 with a trade-off between the number of wines the cabinet holds and ease of access. She can see at a glance what’s what, and it adds a stylish display element to the kitchen where the cabinet is stored. Marina Gayan is an Argentinian Master of Wine working in London and living in a rented flat.

She doesn’t have acres of subterranean space in which to store wine Her solution? A wine cooler unit. With temperature and humidity control and ventilation, the fridge-like cabinet stores her bottles on sliding storage shelves, allowing up to 260 bottles to remain in ideal storage conditions irrespective of the ambient temperature in the flat.
Marina’s cabinet has a specially treated, smoked glass door that filters out harmful ultra-violet light. Cherryish fruit, firmly structured by rich, solid tannins and fresh acidity, creates a distinctive, full-flavoured red for the likes of pheasant stew.. A Mediterranean classic for braised lamb shanks (Somerfield has the almost equally delightful 2000 vintage, at £6.79).Splash out: 1998 Ascheri Barolo Sorano £18.99, Tesco (selected wine advisor stores)Coming into its own now after a five-year wait, Matteo Ascheri’s modern barolo showcases the nebbiolo grape in typically tarry and floral-scented style. Refreshing spritz, tropical fruit and delicately toasty character, with a hint of honeyed richness – try instead of chardonnay with smoked mackerel, salmon p? or fish cakes.Under a tenner: 2001 Ch?au Cazal-Viel, Cuv?des F?, Saint-Chinian, £6.99, WaitroseMade mostly from low-yielding syrah grapes in one of the Languedoc’s best appellations, this powerful red from Henri and Laurent Miquel is spicily aromatic with a peppery perfume. Under a fiver: 2002 Aramonte Catarratto, IGT, Sicilia, £4.99, Marks & Spencer
The catarratto grape is ideally suited to Sicily’s extremely hot, dry climate, where its natural acidity holds up well. The catarratto grape is ideally suited to Sicily’s extremely hot, dry climate, where its natural acidity holds up well.

But there are so many other tasty varieties that may not lend themselves to carving (or as furniture) but are even better for cooking with.Roasted squash and ceps with pumpkin seed salsaServes 4This is a simple and interesting autumnal starter with both ingredients at the peak of their season. As the names suggest – Spirit, Trick-or-Treat and Connecticut Field – these types of pumpkin hail from the US, where they are hollowed out at this time of year. Just think of all that flesh wasted – although these big ones don’t taste of much. Despite their weird but beautiful looks the squashes and pumpkins are incredibly versatile, and take on the flavour of whatever you cook them with to become sweet or savoury. They can do anything that root vegetables and tubers can, and much more. Mashed, roasted, boiled and fried they make a perfect substitute for meat for vegetarians and as a filling for raviolis, tortelloni and cannelloni. I developed a soft spot for pumpkins and squashes when I started using them for risottos and just about anything else at Le Caprice.They’re not just good for cooking.

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