Book yourself in since space is limited and book the bottle as well if it will need special handling prior to

Book yourself in, since space is limited, and book the bottle as well if it will need special handling prior to cork-pop. Then take it downstairs and drink it with a buffet of cheeses and charcuterie bought direct from France. If you got together with 25 friends, you could take over the place and have a whale of an evening.What you’ll drink depends on your finances, but it will be interesting whatever the price. Proprietor Mark Reynier, a third-generation wine-trader, aims only to buy wines that have real individuality. He is proud of not having to “follow” producers year on year in pursuit of the false god continuity, and he is never happier than when finding a few dozen cases of something interesting. (Try asking them to do that at Tesco.)If Burgundy is the traditional star here, the south of France (especially the Midi) is the star for lower-priced wines with attitude.

Typical of the selection is a wonderful drink (50 cases only and selling fast) called Vallongue Montpeyroux 1997, Domaine St Andrieu (pounds 5.95). Sweet, supple, just a tiny bit of sweaty barn-yard roughness around the edges. Another wine sold only here: Chateau de Murviel les Montpellier 1995, Coteaux du Languedoc (pounds 4.95), bursting with minty cassis fruit. “This was a special cuvee too good for blending,” explains Reynier, “and we got it because we were there at the right time.”On the white side, too, the south of France produces interesting stuff.

Not as immediately appealing to Chardonnay-trained (read: deadened) taste buds as the reds, but all the more intriguing for that. Picpoul de Pinet 1997, Domaine St Peyne, Coteaux du Languedoc (pounds 4.95) is a fresh and vivacious mouthful of pungent fruit. Even more distinctive is Chateau La Calisse 1997, Coteaux du Varois (pounds 6.95), an aromatic cocktail with aniseed on the nose and weird hints of quince and lychee on the palate.Please note: quantities of some of these wines are minuscule, and the one you’re after may not be around much longer. But if they don’t have that one, I’ll wager they will have an equally interesting alternative.To drink nowIn the frame this week, three svelte South Americans from Safeway.